How to get past HMRC 's automated phone system

The following appeared on the letters page of The Daily Telegraph on 10th July:

Taxing menu
SIR – I telephoned HMRC about a tax query. I was asked the usual questions by a robot voice and was eventually told to hold and someone would be with me shortly. After 47 minutes waiting, listening to the most awful music, I hung up and tried again.
This time my replies to the robot voice were “lamb vindaloo” and “sweet and sour pork”. To the question: “Are you making an inquiry about your own tax?” I responded: “Walls Cornetto.”
I was put through and spoke to a human adviser within two minutes.
M J Annett Horley, Surrey

Many thanks to Rebecca Cave, for bringing it to my attention.